When to Drop Collision and Comprehensive Coverage


Rules of Thumb: When Should You Drop Full Coverage?

Should you drop comprehensive and collision? The answer depends on three things: your car's value, what you pay for insurance, and whether you have the savings to replace it. The reality is that most drivers should have full coverage, but these are the circumstances when you should drop collision and comprehensive: 

Rules of thumb for when to drop full coverage:

  1. 10% rule: Your annual premium for collision and comprehensive exceeds 10% of what your car is worth. This is the most accurate test. Example: Your car is worth $6,000 and you pay $900 per year for collision and comprehensive. That's 15% of the car's value. Time to drop it.
  2. Car value rule: Your car is worth less than $7,500. The old standard was $5,000, but with premiums running $200 to $250 per month now and repair costs climbing, that benchmark has shifted. A car worth $7,500 or less often doesn't justify the cost of coverage.
  3. Savings rule: You have emergency savings to cover repairs yourself. You need to be able to handle a large repair bill without falling apart financially.
  4. Ownership rule: Your car is paid off. If you're financing or leasing, your lender requires comprehensive and collision coverage. You can't drop it until the loan is paid off.

All four of these need to apply before dropping makes sense. If even one doesn't fit your situation, keep the coverage.

When to Drop Collision and Comprehensive Coverage

You don't have to drop both coverages at the same time. Collision and comprehensive serve different purposes, so your decision on each one might be different. Your driving habits affect collision risk. Your location affects comprehensive risk. You can drop one and keep the other based on what actually applies to you.

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    When You Should Drop Collision

    Drop collision when your driving risk is low and the cost doesn't justify the protection.  Here's how to decide:

    • You meet the rules of thumb above.
    • You drive safely with a clean record. Most drivers haven't had an at-fault accident in the past three years.
    • You drive infrequently or only in local areas. A five thousand mile per year local commute is lower risk than a forty mile highway commute every day.
    • Your car is paid off and you have emergency savings. You can cover large potential repair bills. Remember, if you finance or lease this is required.
    • Your annual collision premium exceeds 10% of your car's value.

    Don't drop collision if: You're a new or anxious driver, you drive 20,000+ miles per year, or your car is financed or leased. Your lender requires it.

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    When You Should Drop Comprehensive

    Drop comprehensive only when regional risks are minimal and you can self-insure for repairs.

    • You meet the rules of thumb above.
    • You park in a secure garage and live in a low-crime area. Your car is protected from the elements and theft risk is minimal.
    • You live in a stable weather region with no history of hail, flooding, or severe storms. Weather risk is regional.
    • You can afford to replace your car if it's stolen or totaled. A theft or total loss is sudden and expensive.
    • Your car is paid off. If you're financing or leasing, your lender requires comprehensive.

    Don't drop comprehensive if: You don't have emergency savings. Comprehensive only costs two hundred to four hundred per year but protects against catastrophic loss like theft or major weather damage.

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MONEYGEEK TIP: INCREASING DEDUCTIBLE VS REMOVING FULL COVERAGE

Before dropping collision or comprehensive entirely, consider raising your deductible instead. This is a smart middle ground between full coverage and no coverage.

Raising your deductible from $500 to $1,000 saves $100 to $200 per year on collision. That's less savings than dropping it completely, but you still have coverage. The tradeoff: if you have a claim, you pay $1,000 out of pocket instead of $500.

What You Lose When You Drop Comprehensive & Collision

Before deciding if you should drop collision, comprehensive, or both (full coverage), understand exactly what you're giving up in terms of protection.  You will lose coverage for repairs to your car and this is why you need to make sure you have savings.

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    If you drop collision coverage:

    You're no longer covered for accidents you cause or single-vehicle crashes. Hit another car, a tree, a guardrail. That's on you. You pay 100% of repair costs out of pocket.  Liability coverage (required by state law) still protects the other driver, but your own car damage? You pay for it.

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    If you drop comprehensive coverage:

    You lose protection against events beyond your control including hail damage, theft, animal damage, weather damage, and vandalism. You will need to pay for damage caused by these events.

Savings When You Drop Collision and Comprehensive

Knowing what you lose when you drop collision and comprehensive is important. But so is understanding what you save when you drop coverage.

  • Dropping collision coverage: Most drivers save $400 to $800 per year. On older cars or cars with higher deductibles, you might save closer to $300 to $400. On newer cars, savings can exceed $1,000 per year. It depends on your car's value, age, and where you live.
  • Dropping comprehensive coverage: Savings are typically $200 to $400 per year. Comprehensive is less expensive than collision, so the savings are smaller. But in areas prone to hail or high theft, comprehensive might cost $500 to $700 per year, making the savings more significant if you drop it.
  • Dropping both collision and comprehensive: Total savings typically run $600 to $1,200 per year depending on your car and location. That's real money. For a driver with a $6,000 car paying $900 per year for full coverage, dropping it saves $900 annually.

Compare this to your emergency fund. If you have $3,000 in savings and drop coverage to save $900 per year, you're building a self-insurance fund. After three years, you've saved $2,700 more. That's meaningful financial protection without the insurance company.

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HOW TO DETERMINE A CAR'S ACTUAL CASH VALUE

You will need to know the Actual cash value (ACV) of your car when deciding if you drop comprehensive and collision.  

Don't rely on one source:

  • Kelley Blue Book: Provides conservative estimates often used by insurers
  • Edmunds: Uses market data and tends to show higher values
  • NADA Guides: Reflects dealer pricing, usually in the middle
  • Local listings: Check sites like AutoTrader to see what cars are actually selling for

Do You Need Comprehensive and Collision Coverage: FAQ

Knowing when to drop collision and comprehensive coverage depends on your car’s value and insurance costs. This section covers common questions to help you make the right decision.

Should I drop collision insurance on a 10-year-old car?

What if I can't afford to replace my car if it's totaled?

What about my liability coverage? Can I drop that?

What about expensive repairs like windshield replacement on new cars?

Can classic or collector cars follow the same dropping rules?

If I drop coverage, can I add it back later?

Collision and Comprehensive Insurance: Related Articles

About Mark Fitzpatrick


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Mark Fitzpatrick, a Licensed Property and Casualty Insurance Producer, is MoneyGeek's resident Personal Finance Expert. He has analyzed the insurance market for over five years, conducting original research for insurance shoppers. His insights have been featured in CNBC, NBC News and Mashable.

Fitzpatrick holds a master’s degree in economics and international relations from Johns Hopkins University and a bachelor’s degree from Boston College. He's also a five-time Jeopardy champion!

He writes about economics and insurance, breaking down complex topics so people know what they're buying.


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